For many years tourism on the Balearic islands had a significant negative influence on the menus of several hotel restaurants. Traditional Balearic dishes were replaced by basic and mediocre international meals and sometimes a very small variety of classical Spanish dishes, seafood or easily prepared paella’s.
But lately, in their search for quality tourism, many hotels have greatly improved their menus and many traditional Balearic meals have made their comeback. But still, if you really want to discover the authentic Balearic cuisine it is recommended to avoid restaurants within the tourism centers of the cities.
The best places on Ibiza are located in the modern areas where the Ibicencos themselves work and live, or in the rural inlands of the island. On Majorca many families gather on Sundays to eat together in the inns that are located just outside the city Palma, especially along the road to Manacor. The cellers (old wine cellars converted into bar-restaurants) offer very good typical Majorca dishes in an authentic atmosphere. Finally, the small open restaurants along the beach often offer simple but very tasty seafood dishes, prepared on the grill.
Ibiza
Ibiza Town has a glut of cafés and restaurants to cater for the crowds. Many of the pricier places are up in Dalt Vila – mostly on Plaça de Vila and Sa Carrossa – or down by the waterfront, while less expensive establishments are dotted round the lower town in between. Opening hours are fairly elastic, with many places staying open from the morning until very late at night. For an early breakfast, head for Madagascar, on Plaça des Parc, or the Croissant Show on Plaça de sa Constitució.
Majorca
Eating in Palma is less pricey – or can be – than anywhere else in the Balearics. Inexpensive cafés and tapas bars are liberally distributed around the city centre, with a particular concentration in the side streets off the Passeig d’es Born and Avinguda Antoni Maura. In central Palma, especially along the harbour front and around Plaça Llotja, many restaurants are unashamedly geared to the tourist trade, with menus in a babble of Euro-tongues. Most serve perfectly reasonable food, mainly grilled meats and fish, but away from these enclaves you’ll find that prices are a little lower and menus more exclusively Catalan and Spanish. At all but the most expensive of places, €18 will cover the cost of a starter, main course, and half a bottle of wine.
Menorca
Unfortunately, in Menorca the traditional Balearic food is not very much in evidence these days, as most of Maó’s restaurants specialize in Spanish, Catalan or Italian dishes. These tourist-oriented establishments are mainly spread out along the harbour side – the Moll de Ponent west of the main stairway, the Moll de Llevant to the east. There’s also a smattering of cheaper restaurants and coffee bars in the centre of town, though surprisingly few tapas bars.
Formentera
Es Pujols, the principal resort, has a plethora of seafront bars and restaurants, with menus to suit most wallets, and excellent seafood on offer. Good options include the busy little Bar Pupit; can Vent, which serves great seafood; and Rigatoni, which does Italian food in stylish surrounds – all are on, or just off, the seafront. For breakfast. Try the café at Hostal Residencia Mayans. Es Pujols is also where you’ll find the island’s nightlife, with a strip of late bars, including the trendy Moon Bar, and a small club, Flower Power.
Elsewhere on the island, you’ll find the best pizz at the Italian-owned Es Pla, by turning for Cala Saona, while Restaurant Rafalet, in Caló de Sant Agustí, boasts a lovely seafront setting for delicious fish and seafood. Sant Ferran has several good bars around its plaza, including the atmospheric Fonda Plate, where you can enjoy a languid drink.
